EAST TEXAS HOG DOGGERS FORUM

Decided to design a box for my big red, this is what i have come up with so far. As of now I am building it to fit into the bed with the tailgate open, it will be bolted to the roll cage of the buggy to prevent it from sliding (not 100% sure if i am going to build it this way yet or not, the way im lookin at it is that the 6" of tailgate would be deadspace when down anyway so why not use it and make the box longer....any opinions on this?) Any add-ons or deletes you would prefer? I would like input from ya'll being that this is my first box built for a buggy, ive seen and looked at 100's of pictures and this is what i decided on so far but im open to changes. It will be 2 stories, 100% enclosed on bottom and open up top to rig dogs.

Front view (closest to cab)
Clips will be welded to the top rail to secure dogs while riding up top and utility panel will not be added between the top 2 horizontals so that it will be easier to snap and unsnap dogs.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/9ane8uhy.jpg)

Side view, the second horizontal run from the bottom will be angle all the way around with a 1/2" treated plywood roof/floor.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/9ury6ase.jpg)

Back view, i chose to add a 6" gate across the width of the upper deck for a couple reasons, 1 to make it easy for me to hang cut gear and other nonsense on and 2 so that the dogs and anything else i put up there will have something to prevent them from sliding off the rear.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/ydeduvar.jpg)

Let me hear your ideas, likes and dislikes and anything you would change on it if it were yours. Should be beginning to fab it thursday hopefully. I'll post pics along the way and once complete. Thanks in advance.


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Justin,

I like the design and it looks very similar to the box I use for my ranger.  There are times I wish I had just a little more storage, but I am not going to add a dry storage box on the top, becuase I like rig digs up there too.

What I wish I would have done is had my box elevated off my bed about 4 inches so I could slide things under my box.  If you are using square tubing, you could put a rail under your box so that you had storage for things like vests, collars, a small tuper ware box that could easily be removed.  This would also give the box a little extra height if you ever decided to put the box in a truck.  I hope I described this correctly.

I know exactly what you mean, I thought about this as well but was leaning towards using the bed of the buggy as the bottom of my box, with it elevated I would have to put in a floor (not a big deal) my only issue with it would be the piss/ chit and other nasty things that dogs tend to come with  rolleyes, I am going to keep it in mind though, thanks for the input!

I am also contemplating  setting the box a bit further back to allow for additional seating on top of the box which in return will allow for under foot storage.......still not 100% sure one way or the other.

Wow looks real good

Dont know if you'll have the room.  But my next box will have a water tank with lick taps stubbed into each dog bay.  No more spilled water bowls

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Looks good!  My only suggestion would be to drop down to either 3/4 or 1/2 in square tubing. My first truck box I built with 1in, and it is a heavy mother. I built almost the same box for a friend but used 1/2 in, and there was a considerable weight difference, and it was still more than strong enough. A little bit of weight savings is a big deal on a utv. Just something to consider.

I would not bolt the box to the roll bar. I would also leave the box short enough to close tailgate. That tail gate isn't the strongest thing in the world. 4 small ratchet straps to the tie downs on the corners would hold it in and make it easier to remove when needed. Not being bolted to roll bar would also make it easier to tilt bed to wash out whatever may need washed out. The top section is the one thing I would like to have on my box. I made my box so I could use it in truck and big red that meant I left the top part off.


Shotgun
Arkansas

Looks like a plan to me Justin.  I'm not a fan of a floor in a box for the same reasons you mentioned. I also
prefer a solid divider separating the 2 holes. I think your gate on top should be hinged on the bottom of gate.
Also if you wanted, you could get by with a 20" tall box and cut 4" off the overall height.  I couldn't make my mind
up on how tall to get my box built and the guys on here convinced me to go 20" tall. I'm glad I did.

From what I can see on your plan it looks like the "gate" on top actually swings like a gate,just my 2 cents...but I think it would work and look better if you hinge it at the bottom so it drops down over your closed doors,you could use the rong pull type latches to secure it,the was a post on here recently of a badass aluminum box someone bilt and that top storage part had a drop down hinge like what im thinking of,anyway,worth checking out,either way you go I think your gonna have a nice setup!

Justin,that post I was referring to was by jfork on page 2 under "3 bay box project" you will see the dropdown hinge part on top

Idk if it's in the plans or not justin but I'd leave about 6" on one side of the bed that you could use for storage. That's how a buddy's is and it's pretty useful for bags lil bit of tools etc

Thanks for all the info guys, i really appreciate it.

 I agree 100% on hinging the top gate down instead of to the side.....one of those "why didnt i think of that moments" lol, thats why I asked for everyone's input.

Mod93dirt, i will deff. Look into weight/money differences when i pick up my tubing, i just wasnt 100% sure 1/2" would handle weight on top (gear, hogs, etc. but i imagine this thing will be plenty rigid when im done.

Shotgun, i am with you on not bolting it and instead just ratchet strapping it into the buggy, another "why didnt I think of that" deals lol, however i think im going to still build it out to the end of the tailgate because the only thing (beside the box)  will be dogs and the weight of the box will be distributed across the entire length of the bed.

Dwest, great idea, im gonna look into that!

Jimco, i also plan on using a solid divider in the middle, thanks for throwin it out there tho! I will probly shorten the box height as well.

Rockin roo, thanks for bringin up the top gate hinges, will look much better that way. And thanks for findin that thread for me.

When i get to work tomorrow I will make some revisions and repost what i come up with, thanks for all the info folks!



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I looked at the pics of the one you and colby built for his big red more than once, for ideas (in case you didn't notice ;) ).....i can draw it on a computer...... We shall see how it transfers to the real world though lol


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My original post before i deleted it said. Wow very original design justin. ;) but i figured i would be nice :p

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/me9a5u2a.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/yru3aba8.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/a9e6u7a5.jpg)

Something like this

I really liked this box when u first posted it. I do like how he added the panel on outside of top to prevent their legs from coming out the side.


Shotgun
Arkansas

Thanks bud peachcreek on here fabed and designed it while I drank beer and helped lol but yea it wouldn't hurt added sides but I haven't had any issues dogs Fallin out get due to where the clips are on top but if you were to move the any further over I could see the problem there.

Not exactly colby but pretty close.

not too many different ways can ya design a functional 2 story box peaches (at least not that I can fab/weld lol) and if it works then y fix it right. ;)

I will be building a big front rack for it next wouldnt happen to have any plans or pics for one of them would ya travis? Lol

I think i found a pretty simple way to  redesign it to allow for seating or rigging dogs up top, when i get to work tomorrow i'll draw out what im thinkin (got it on paper now but my freehand aint up to par with my computer drawing abilities lol) i'll post it for additional input as well,

lots of good ideas in this thread!


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I would leave the tailgate where I could open and close it because it gives the dog something to jump on when loading instead of having to ring a dog box door off the ground. And if the box comes all the way out to the end of the tailgate you will have to open the door all the way open for the dog to be able to jump in and if it's other dogs in there they will be trying to get out. Instead leave the tailgate and dog can jump up there and you can crack door open and they go in.

That's right BP, the tailgate is needed for loading and unloading dogs.  its a great fold down table for all sorts of chit.

I posted a thread a while back when i built a front rack for my ranger. Here is a crappy pic of it. (http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/7a9yqumu.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/nege6ype.jpg)

I was almost positive i had seen pics of one you built but i didnt come across it today when i was lookin, thanks Travis.


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Justin, here are some pics of the box I built with the 1in tubing, and 3/8 round bar. The second one I built was identical except I used 1/2in square and 1/4 in round bar, and no headache rack. I'm 200 lbs and have stood on it no problem, and we've had several dogs or coolers on it as well. Granted I've got the 1/4in vertical supports all the way around, and I'm not sure the panel would offer as much strength, but I think you would be alright going with the smaller steel, especially if you use a solid center divider.

(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j64/mod93dirt/2da0f6a8.jpg)

(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j64/mod93dirt/002b915f.jpg)

(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j64/mod93dirt/50f663d7.jpg)

Thanks for postin mod93dirt, very nice lookin boxes!


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Here's what i came up with last night, its kinda hard to explain and i dont have a 3d design program to draw it correctly on this computer so my excel drawings are all i can manage. You will see in one picture that there are seats and another where they are gone and a sheet of plywood is in place. I will be using angle iron on the top outer edges of both sides to keep either the seat or the plywood in place (whichever option i choose for the particular hunt) the seat will be 2 pieces of ply wood 50" long hinged on both sides, wrapped with cushion and vinyl- pretty much a homemade boat seat that can be removed easily to swap with the plywood floor, the plywood will serve as a floor for the dogs to stand on while rigging and clips will be welded across the length of the front upper most rail. Hope this makes sense lol

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/ruqe8ydy.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/symetagu.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/e3uvaby6.jpg)

Input, both positive and negative will be greatly appreciated, i want to build this thing right the first time so i dont end up needing to make changes down the road.


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Justin,

Is there any reason why you are using 2 x 2 panel?  I myself would use the 4 x 4 panel.  It would allow me to reach in and pull a magnet out or put a magnet in a quick track.  I also like when a dog can get his head or at least his nose out the box.

Honestly no not really any particular reason, you have a good point.


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I really like what you have going there. Are you going to try to have a seat on it and a spot to rig the dogs on the back? There might be enough space for one dog on top that way, or maybe there isn't.. Is that two different design ideas or one idea that you could use as both? Really like the idea. Either way can't go wrong.

I like the 2x2 panels better if you happen to get into some brush it's a little more protection and is stoughter and looks better. Jmo

Jpuckett, that is 1 design that i will be able to swap from  seats to a 30"x52" rigging deck depending on the particular hunt. Thanks for the kind words!


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I didnt even think about it from a protection standpoint but i do agree that I think the 2x2 would be a bit stronger and better looking.


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Looks good.  The drop down top gate will be nice.  I designed the box I just build with ideas from several boxes I have used with friends and a swinging gate can be a real headache! 

I have plans to build a similar box for a Ranger.  Not sure of all the details yet but I'm thinking we are going to use the polaris lock and ride holes to secure the box to the bed.   We also have thrown around the idea of have storage under the box. 

Eager to see how your box turns out.

That'll be real nice, only thing i have against bottom storage is the issue of dog piss/chit getting into it, im sure u could make it watertight but its a bit more than im lookin to do.


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Where's a good and cheap place to get aluminum material in eat texas?