I used to surf. Learned in Galveston. Got Stationed in Southern California and surfed up and down the coast. Broke a board in Hawaii. But I suffered a tramatic brain injury and while for the most part I have my balance I have not been able to surf again. I really miss getting air and shooting the tubes. In Galveston we surfed anytime a huricane got in the gulf. The cops or beach patrol would grab us if we came back to the beach and make us leave.
