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Author Topic: I am no builder.............  (Read 5731 times)
cantexduck
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« on: December 04, 2009, 07:55:17 am »

 Forming up the slab on sunday for my new kennels. Slab is 50'x10'. Will have 7 kennels with a 15 x 10 "tack room on the end. It will have a single pitch roof(I think that is what you call it, higher in the front and then angles down to the back). I was thinking of the slab running north to south with the tack room on the north end to block the cold wind.That would make the back of the kennels west and the doors east. We have a decent south, sw and north wind at our house. Not any trees to block the wind. I plan on putting up some shrubs to help with this problem. Do yall see any problems with this?
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Rich.
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« Reply #1 on: December 04, 2009, 08:03:37 am »

That sounds like a great plan to me.
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bghogdogtx
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« Reply #2 on: December 04, 2009, 08:04:20 am »

GOOD LUCK AND HAVE FUN Grin Grin.  Naw sounds like a good idea.  Like the idea of the small tack room on the end
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leifbarnes
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« Reply #3 on: December 04, 2009, 08:14:53 am »

If your pouring monolithic, I would put a couple joints to control cracking. Tool or saw, if sawing make sure you do them within 24 hours of placement.

Sounds like a good plan.

Are you doing a rough (broom) or smooth finish?
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Eric Barnes
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« Reply #4 on: December 04, 2009, 08:23:22 am »

very light broom finish. I dont know sheet about concrete. I can tell you that we are using 4-sack and will have beams.
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« Reply #5 on: December 04, 2009, 08:38:17 am »

Sounds real nice Mike.  Can't wait to see the finished product.
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« Reply #6 on: December 04, 2009, 08:42:04 am »

Have you layed out your kennels on paper?  I would put 2 joints in the 50' length, possibly align them with kennel partitions spaced out as even as possible.  

Obviously you have someone helping you place so hopefully they will cut or tool these for you.

Beams are a good thing.  

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Eric Barnes
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« Reply #7 on: December 04, 2009, 08:53:48 am »

No more area than your pouring use rebar tied on 12" centers, not wire mesh.

Running your kennels north and south is a good thing because you can block the north wind during the winter as you mentioned.  The bad thing, is that probably 75% of the day your dogs will be in the sun.

I would consider sheeting the back tops of the pens to about 18" or so from the top.  Morning sun isn't as bad as afternoon.  Make the back of your kennels face west.

Here's a pic...hope this makes sense.

BTW- How thick are you pouring?

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lonewolf
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« Reply #8 on: December 04, 2009, 08:56:23 am »

Just my opinion: Be sure to slope the concrete pad at least 2" fall to help with wash outs. The finsh of the concrete needs to be smooth as glass this makes it a lot easer to clean. once agian just my opinion!
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« Reply #9 on: December 04, 2009, 08:59:32 am »

Just my opinion: Be sure to slope the concrete pad at least 2" fall to help with wash outs. The finsh of the concrete needs to be smooth as glass this makes it a lot easer to clean. once agian just my opinion!

My kennel slab is too rough, lessoned learned.

Next time will be smooth.

I am curious if anyone ever seals the concrete to help prevent staining? 
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« Reply #10 on: December 04, 2009, 09:06:15 am »

I think its good to allow the sun on the East side.  My dogs like to try to lay in the sun in the mornings to warm up.

  Imo. I wouldn't go with the real smooth finish.  It makes the dogs pads soft.
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Circle C
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« Reply #11 on: December 04, 2009, 09:16:34 am »


Quote
Re: I am no builder.............

You sure look the part of a builder in this pic Grin

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matt_aggie04
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« Reply #12 on: December 04, 2009, 09:18:56 am »

I think its good to allow the sun on the East side.  My dogs like to try to lay in the sun in the mornings to warm up.

  Imo. I wouldn't go with the real smooth finish.  It makes the dogs pads soft.

I agree with both of these statements.  I am moving but the concrete I have under my kennels at my house now is SLICK and it has not done their feet any favors and it wont even wear the nails down.  New concrete will be a little more rough....

Sun is key too I think, they really like laying in it and I think it makes them healthier...
« Last Edit: December 04, 2009, 09:23:49 am by matt_aggie04 » Logged

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« Reply #13 on: December 04, 2009, 09:39:22 am »


Quote
Re: I am no builder.............

You sure look the part of a builder in this pic Grin




Maybe not a "builder" per say, but DEFINATELY a concrete finisher!  Wink

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« Reply #14 on: December 04, 2009, 09:44:40 am »

Here is a better pic of Savoy.  This is his avatar from an online dating website

I am not sure what he looks like here, but not a builder....
« Last Edit: December 04, 2009, 09:46:45 am by Texas_Cur » Logged

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« Reply #15 on: December 04, 2009, 09:46:11 am »

My slabs are totally unfinished.
Meaning, we levelled the cement even with the top of the forms by dragging and tamping with a 2X4 across the top of the forms.
As soon as we finished, I was worried it would be too rough.
Once it was dry it had settled and was just what I wanted.
Keeps the dogs pads tough and the nails trimmed.
Still washes out quite easily as well.
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« Reply #16 on: December 04, 2009, 09:47:19 am »

Oh dear lord, that last pic was posted while I typed......I think I just threw up a little!
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« Reply #17 on: December 04, 2009, 09:55:32 am »

I'm pretty sure I just threw up in my mouth also.

Nothing pulls wool quite like pistols and guitar hero.  You go boy!
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« Reply #18 on: December 04, 2009, 09:58:54 am »

Im no builder either , but I do know concrete , if your doing beams  Im sure your doing a thinkened edge all they way around the outside of the pour also I would saw cut the slab every 10 foot , if you put joints there just going to fill up with crap ect.   a rule of thumb on your sawing is one quarter of your total slab thickness , 4 inch slab cut one inch deep , and like what was already posted , withen 24 hours also its really cold here , so to keep from babysitting the concrete forever if its really cold there they have additives to put in the concrete to speed up the finish time , such as hot water , calcium or  non calcium additive , they claim that calcium will eat the steel up over time but I dont think it will in your life time , I would use hot water and 2% nca if its below 60 degrees , concrete will freeze so if its below freezing anytime withen  five days after the pour the concrete will need to be covered up. if it freezes the top will pop off the concrete. I also would use a 3500 psi concrete it finishes better , also you need to put air in you concrete if its exposed to the weather , this will also keep the top from popping off in the future
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Circle C
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« Reply #19 on: December 04, 2009, 10:01:06 am »

Savoy,

  After seeing your dating profile pic, I am embarrassed for you.  Guitar Hero..Really?  I really thought the tune of a banjo fit you more...
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