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Author Topic: tie outs  (Read 3380 times)
coach
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« on: November 14, 2013, 10:31:37 am »

need to see a design in which the tie out is elevated above the ground and swivels around.

Thanks in advance,

Coach
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Dirtydog
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« Reply #1 on: November 14, 2013, 01:26:53 pm »

When i was at Mr Masons yard he had some cool tie outs...
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coach
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« Reply #2 on: November 14, 2013, 01:37:38 pm »

I know he does I just cant remember what they look like!! Undecided
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« Reply #3 on: November 14, 2013, 08:36:54 pm »

My tie outs are a T post with a disk blade on them cupped side down. Then I took a piece of pipe about 6" long big enough to slide over TPost. I welded a piece of rebar to it so I could fasten the lead to it. The disc Blade keeps the lead from cutting in ground. I can also fasten patio umbrella's to the T post for added shade in the summer.

I have also seen a long piece of all thread drove in ground with a nut washer nut then metal ring above that and a second nut washer nut at the top. Driving it in ground will swell the threads to keep nut from coming off. U can drive it down till it is barely above ground.

Sorry I don't have pics of either.


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CHRIS H.
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« Reply #4 on: November 14, 2013, 09:09:33 pm »




http://www.gundogsupply.com/tbibproststo.html#video

^ this is the one I use .. I don't remember paying that much for it tho . Maybe it will help you think of somethin you could make.

Hope That helped some
Thanks
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josh54
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« Reply #5 on: November 14, 2013, 09:46:46 pm »

 Wild boar usa has one for 33 bucks
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« Reply #6 on: November 15, 2013, 08:13:04 am »

I used trailer house anchors in the past. I just put a swivel near the head, drove it into the ground and good to go. Just had to check em every couple months to see if they were still down deep and stable.
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« Reply #7 on: November 15, 2013, 09:11:41 am »

http://www.easttexashogdoggers.com/forum/index.php?topic=61467.0

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charles
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« Reply #8 on: November 15, 2013, 12:04:01 pm »

 take you a 4-5' piece of sucker rod, drive it in the ground till about 10-12" above the ground, weld a thick washer, or cut a washer out of thicker metal and weld it to the sucker rod, take a piece of pipe that will fit over the rod and weld an eye on it and then weld a washer or the thicker home made washer on the top. put u a swivel on the eye, and attach the chain to the swivel. if seen the tie outs like the link provided. know a guy in ne tx and he had a couple n they didt work well bc the dogs would pull against it and it would eventually pull out of the ground. 
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« Reply #9 on: November 17, 2013, 09:57:50 pm »

the best tie outs I have made were 2 inch angle iron 18 inches long with 12 inches  of chain welded to it drive it in the ground until the top is around 6 inches under the ground works great . I used them for years with all my dogs never had one pulled out .
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Bowhunter1994
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« Reply #10 on: November 18, 2013, 08:51:35 am »

Some good ideas
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« Reply #11 on: November 18, 2013, 05:59:40 pm »

Somebody esplain using a piece of fence post and an old axle, seen em, but dont weld  and never looked that close how those setups work
 I think u put or concrete fence post in ground, ground level like, either hook a chain to the axle or weld a link to it, drop axle in the fence post, done deal
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« Reply #12 on: November 18, 2013, 06:25:26 pm »

Iv seen an axle shaft driven into the ground with a ring that fits loosely around the shaft n leaving about 6" of the shaft n flange above the ground with the studs cut off n a dog house bolted on top of the flange
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« Reply #13 on: November 19, 2013, 07:32:04 pm »

This the . . . VERY BEST AND ONLY WAY . . . I will ever stake a dog out.  Go to the salvage yard and pick up some axles.  I usually pay around $5 for them.  Take 3/8" or 1/2" chain and make a loop in the end with a cold shut, quick link, etc.  Make the loop small enough so that it will not come over the flange/wheel of the axle.  Lay your loop on the ground where you want it and drive the axel thru the loop and completely under the ground about and inch or two below the soil level, and then you can kick some dirt on top.  This will look like a chain is simply coming out of the ground (all you can see is the chain).  Now place a quality made heavy duty swivel at the 1/2 way point of the chain (w, cold shuts) and another swivel at the collar end.  Take a heavy duty big "O Ring" and permanently attach to the collar end of the chain (cold shut).  Now, run a heavy duty 2" nylon collar thru the "O-Ring" and THEN fasten it to the dogs neck.  So every time you need to get the dog off the chain, you have to take the collar off the dog to get it out of the ring and then put the collar back on the dog.

By running the collar thru the O-Ring, you've eliminated any snaps, connectors, etc from breaking.  By placing the extra swivel in the middle of the chain, you've eliminated those dogs that run little short circles, from kinking the chain and getting tangled short.  By driving the axel completely under ground, you've eliminated any debris, sticks, excess dirt, ect. from getting gathered up under the axel.  The chain CANNOT tangle at the ground.

I raised bulldogs for 20 years, at times maintaining a yard of 40 dogs and never had one single chain accident.  I can promise you this is the best way to stake out a dog.  Its expensive, about $35-$40 to set one up right, but then again, $hit that works usually costs a little more.         
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mod93dirt
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« Reply #14 on: November 19, 2013, 11:38:16 pm »

Here is what has worked great for me. I took some bent up scrap t-posts and cut off about the bottom two feet then I welded 8-12 in of chain to the top of the cut off post. Then drive the post in the ground so all is sticking up is the chain. From there I connect my swivels and longer lengths of chains. With this setup there is absolutely nothing for them to get tangled on or wrapped up around. When it is time to mow, I can unhook the long chain, and mow over the short bit that sticks up from the ground. Nothing to maneuver around which I like. I only have an issue with one of my dogs on this setup.  He is a bit of a tweeker  and likes to run circles all day long and he will build up a good mound of dirt at the center pivot point that I have to knock down every couple months. Other than that this is the best setup of all that I have tried that works for me.
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TheRednose
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« Reply #15 on: November 19, 2013, 11:52:21 pm »

This the . . . VERY BEST AND ONLY WAY . . . I will ever stake a dog out.  Go to the salvage yard and pick up some axles.  I usually pay around $5 for them.  Take 3/8" or 1/2" chain and make a loop in the end with a cold shut, quick link, etc.  Make the loop small enough so that it will not come over the flange/wheel of the axle.  Lay your loop on the ground where you want it and drive the axel thru the loop and completely under the ground about and inch or two below the soil level, and then you can kick some dirt on top.  This will look like a chain is simply coming out of the ground (all you can see is the chain).  Now place a quality made heavy duty swivel at the 1/2 way point of the chain (w, cold shuts) and another swivel at the collar end.  Take a heavy duty big "O Ring" and permanently attach to the collar end of the chain (cold shut).  Now, run a heavy duty 2" nylon collar thru the "O-Ring" and THEN fasten it to the dogs neck.  So every time you need to get the dog off the chain, you have to take the collar off the dog to get it out of the ring and then put the collar back on the dog.

By running the collar thru the O-Ring, you've eliminated any snaps, connectors, etc from breaking.  By placing the extra swivel in the middle of the chain, you've eliminated those dogs that run little short circles, from kinking the chain and getting tangled short.  By driving the axel completely under ground, you've eliminated any debris, sticks, excess dirt, ect. from getting gathered up under the axel.  The chain CANNOT tangle at the ground.

I raised bulldogs for 20 years, at times maintaining a yard of 40 dogs and never had one single chain accident.  I can promise you this is the best way to stake out a dog.  Its expensive, about $35-$40 to set one up right, but then again, $hit that works usually costs a little more.         

Ding Ding Ding There it is, the one and only I would ever do it too!
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« Reply #16 on: November 20, 2013, 12:12:32 am »

The only thing I might differ from you on is I think I like them about 6 inches or so above ground, I have had them both ways and dont use chain setups any longer but if I did I think I would be partial to above.
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redriverslim
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« Reply #17 on: November 20, 2013, 06:47:41 pm »

The only thing I might differ from you on is I think I like them about 6 inches or so above ground, I have had them both ways and dont use chain setups any longer but if I did I think I would be partial to above.

What used to happen on mine, was that dirt would build up under that axel (if it was raised off the ground), and over time a dirt hill mound would form in the middle of the axel and cause the water to "pond up" and the dog would be running in a trench of water that took forever to drain.  I started burying them several years ago and the run seems to stay dryer.
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WayOutWest
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« Reply #18 on: November 20, 2013, 07:46:01 pm »

I do a similar setup to you slim but I use a 3/8 s hook to the axle with G-8 chain (loadchain). I make my own swivels with 1/2" eyenuts and a 3/8" stainless ring that I bend that fits the collar. Gary Hammonds has bought 50 or 60 of them thru the years. Floyd Beaudroux and a whole bunch of other dogmen have told me my swivels are the best. I don't make em for sale anymore but in 35 years I have not had a loose dog due to my chain/axle/swivels. 
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redriverslim
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« Reply #19 on: November 21, 2013, 11:07:02 am »

I do a similar setup to you slim but I use a 3/8 s hook to the axle with G-8 chain (loadchain). I make my own swivels with 1/2" eyenuts and a 3/8" stainless ring that I bend that fits the collar. Gary Hammonds has bought 50 or 60 of them thru the years. Floyd Beaudroux and a whole bunch of other dogmen have told me my swivels are the best. I don't make em for sale anymore but in 35 years I have not had a loose dog due to my chain/axle/swivels. 

I know what your talking about.  I've got some that were made by Jack Partridge (SAGASA KENNELS) that are stainless.  They are 20 yrs old and look brand new w/no slack.
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