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Author Topic: Worms  (Read 1895 times)
Muddy-N-Bloody
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« Reply #20 on: January 02, 2020, 09:57:01 am »

I am not trying to beat a dead horse and I realize this has probably been talked about 1ooo times on this forum and I also read most of everyones post here about worms..... but also know that like Cajun stated even if you worm like you have in the past with good sucess there is a chance of pups still being wormy - but lets just see and hear a overall good guide on worming a pregnant gyp and then pups.
I have had 100s of pups and have done fair with them for sure but always looking to do better-
I currently have a gyp that is pregnant and its one of these breedings that is very important and need complete success with for this is a big part of my dog future- so what I am asking is..... what is your worming plan with a gyp that is pregnant and then when pups arrive what is worming plan until they are ready to leave at like 6-8 weeks?

I may be trying to overthink things alil as I do at times but like I stated above this litter is a big deal to me - so all replies are appreciated
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t-dog
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« Reply #21 on: January 02, 2020, 01:30:15 pm »

Muddy, I was taught that the momma is key. Keep her clean and your pups have a head start, stronger immune systems etc. I was also taught to start worming at 10 days old and every 7 days after that. This was the regimen of a highly successful greyhound breeder. Of course they are a little strict because those dogs are more prone to disease being bred the way they have. He gave a gyp (60-70 lbs.) 1.5cc of Ivomec 2 weeks into the pregnancy and the same again 2 weeks before she had them, and under the skin on the nap of the neck.  Of course this was in addition to her regular worming schedule that he continued with after she whelped. At 10 days he started worming the pups. He used strongid and panacur, alternating them. He now uses Ivomec in the rotation too as well as Valbazen. The Ivomec isn't used until they are about 5 or 6 weeks old. It's usually a tenth of a cc per 10 pounds of body weight with the Ivomec. He uses a diabetic syringe to dose the pups and he gives it to them orally. The Valbazen is usually not started until 4 to 6 weeks too. He does this until they are 5 or 6 months old then he starts spreading it out more. That's a pretty strict regimen. I do that but only until they are 8 or ten weeks then start spreading it out. I also only just started with the valbazen on young pups. I was waiting until they were 3.5 to 4 months because I thought it might have been a little harder wormer. But, they do fine and it isn't. Plus even if it was, the worms are harder in them than the wormer as long you don't use some crazy amount. Something else I was taught by a different dog mentor, was that if I kept my gyps clean, that my pups would be born stronger and healthier. That only the weak immune system having dogs would get parvo and such. This guy said he didn't give those shots to dogs he was keeping for himself because they didn't need it. That if they had weak immune systems he didn't want to breed to them anyway. He vaccinated the dogs that went elsewhere because he said he couldn't control the conditions or care the dog would be in when it left him. I couldn't argue with his success.  I had lost 3 litters in a row to parvo. I was very young and green then. The first litter I raised using his system lived and with no vaccines given. The same yard, same soil, same pen as the 3 that didn't make it.

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Muddy-N-Bloody
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« Reply #22 on: January 02, 2020, 03:25:07 pm »

Thanks t dog
Only thing I see that I ain’t doing is the timing on the starting of the wormer - never wormed them that early but I will now - my gyp is pretty clean but I will make sure of it


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