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News: WILD BOAR USA....FOR ALL YOUR HOG HUNTING NEEDS
 
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Author Topic: 4 legged mules  (Read 1310 times)
t-dog
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« Reply #20 on: January 07, 2022, 07:36:15 am »

Sounds like they thought the pad might have been causing the saddle to pinch the whithers is what I have visualized.

Old man I can say that I never saw cable used like that. I assume it’s stainless? I helped my ex’s father repair a good many saddles as they had a leather/saddle shop. I never saw a saddle made that way. Sounds pretty dang neat.


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The Old Man
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« Reply #21 on: January 07, 2022, 07:47:03 am »

Mules are made a little different than horses and there are saddles built on Mule Bars, if you were just going to ride a mule that would probably be the way to go, mule bars are straighter or don't have as much "rock" in them but you can also get along with a saddle built on Quarter Horse Bars, typically it would be one that is not super wide in the Gullet. Whatever you ride especially if you ride long distances or are really working your mount you need to pad them correctly, that varies greatly from animal to animal and there lots of ways to achieve that. It doesn't hurt a thing and could help some mules or horses to cut a 2-3 inch gap in your pad from right behind the withers to a few inches from the back of the pad, the idea behind that is to not have pressure or rub right on the spine, but if the saddle tree is reasonably close to the horse or mules shape it is not absolutely necessary. There are lots of elements that go into achieving a good fit of a saddle and pads if you get right down to the nitty gritty and we can go way overboard with all that.
I have never owned a saddle built on mule bars "but" I think someone just going to ride a mule and inexperienced in saddle fitting would probably be ahead of the game to purchase a Corriente brand saddle built on mule bars, they are a fairly cheap saddle of reasonable quality that you could probably get years of service out of.
Have never been associated with Tough 1  saddles so don't have an opinion on them.
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The Old Man
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« Reply #22 on: January 07, 2022, 07:52:23 am »

The cable is a coated stainless and should be the strongest front rigging made. I have not jerked the rigging out of a saddle but have saw it done, my issues with traditional trees has been trees breaking where the stirrup leather goes over the bars, metal horns screwed in getting jerked loose, and did have one where the swells broke horizontally. So far I like this saddle real well and have ridden it on my horse and mule with no issues, I just tinkered with how to pad them differently.
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The Old Man
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« Reply #23 on: January 07, 2022, 08:54:32 am »

 The way the rigging is on this new saddle it goes over the tree front and back rather than attached to the tree like conventional riggings are. 
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t-dog
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« Reply #24 on: January 07, 2022, 09:45:01 am »

I have seen them broke like you described multiple times. I’ve never been a fan of nails and always felt like screws were a detriment unless predrilled. Leather is very similar to wood in the sense that it swells and contracts. This causes play with nails, even with ring shank nails, because once it swells it loosens the nails or lifts them but they don’t return to their original placement when the leather retracts. It’s like looking at an old privacy fence that was put up with nails. When you look at the planks, the nail head will be sticking out way away from the face of the board. It’s because each time that board swelled it pulled the nail out but it didn’t return when it shrank back to normal. I also prefer stainless screws. I have seen several times where a saddle was ready to fall apart because the salt had eaten the screws and nails up. There’s a right way and a wrong way like with anything lol. I NEVER have been a fan of a horn that was screwed in, at least not in a working saddle that you are pulling and dragging with. It’s just simple logic that that is the weakest point. The rigging set up on your new saddle sounds smart too.


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The Old Man
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« Reply #25 on: January 08, 2022, 08:49:49 am »

I have a picture of this "unconventional" saddle tree for those that haven't ever saw one in case you might be was interested. This is a Wade style tree but there are many different styles to choose from, and you can put any of the conventional riggings in them.     Having a saddle built on this tree was strictly experimental for me since I am rather old fashioned but it all made sense to me and if I hadn't liked the finished product I would just have sold it, but so far I think it is working really good. I have probably rode it 200 miles and did work and catch a couple big yearlings out of one day. The final verdict is still out haha.

                                       

                                       

                                       

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Arkansashunter96
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« Reply #26 on: January 09, 2022, 01:06:48 am »

What bit do y’all use for hunting
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The Old Man
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« Reply #27 on: January 09, 2022, 08:09:12 am »

That depends on the mule, but for me and a young mule like you mentioned I'd use a ring snaffle and I ride it a long long time then move them up to a short shanked curbless dogbone snaffle that most young stuff rides well  in. A young mule graduates up and older mules you just try different ones and watch for what works best.
 A lot of the mule guru's ride a Myler training bit. There is even a Max Harsha Mule bit available. Our old mule likes a chain bit pretty well and the mare mule I mostly ride likes a Workman bit, some folks swear by a Correction bit which is a ported  mouth piece that swivels. The goal is to get one to ride because they know to not because their mouth hurts.
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Arkansashunter96
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« Reply #28 on: January 10, 2022, 08:33:47 pm »

Ok thank you I’ve heard some about the snaffle bit. Whenever y’all would get a mule going really good behind dogs would they sometimes lead themselves to the bay or seem like they heard the dog before y’all?
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The Old Man
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« Reply #29 on: January 10, 2022, 08:58:19 pm »

Haha, some of them will listen to the dogs but I decide how to get to the bay, and they usually know when you start back to the truck.
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jsh
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« Reply #30 on: January 11, 2022, 05:32:18 am »

I am certainly no cowboy or horseman, but have owned and ridden a few over the years.  Decided to go off of horseback earlier this year.  I was bringing the dogs and my friend was bringing the mounts. When I showed up his son said dad couldn’t make it so you can ride his horse. This sucker was a high powered, work every day all day kind of horse.

First off I figured out he was going to lead the group, no problem. At the first bark, he pinned his ears back and hauled tail to the bay. At first I thought he was going to rub me off on a branch purposely, but did what I asked and avoided the tree. I looked back at Wyatt like “what the hell” and he was laughing. Said he thinks we have a cow bayed and he’s going to get there as fast as he can.

Continued the day hunting, no wrecks and he and I got along just fine.  I had never ridden a horse that intense and it was a pleasure.

Old Man you are right.  He knew when we were done and was ready for the trailer. It was parked on the other side of a government lake and we could see it. Walking toward the lake Wyatt yelled that I might want to turn him he’d swim me to that trailer if not.........
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Arkansashunter96
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« Reply #31 on: January 13, 2022, 12:13:31 am »

Haha I can only imagine lmao. Would a peppy high energy animal be better suited than opposite. Also is ground work the lead to less train wrecks. Going down to the hog pen, being right next to the dogs in the round pen, throwing dead hogs and tarps over his back. Do y’all hobble y’all’s animals feet when you get off
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The Old Man
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« Reply #32 on: January 13, 2022, 08:30:43 am »

I only hobble during training, but I ride a halter and lead rope under the bridle when hunting to use when tying up or jumping fences.
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